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Hey friends! I’m so excited for today’s post, because today marks the start of the Learn To Loom Knit series! The first project in the loom knit-a-long is a cozy, chunky loom knit double brim beanie. It’s easy to make, and this classic beanie is a winter weather staple.
This knit-a-long is going to be so much fun. My love for fiber arts began with loom knitting, and I’m excited to dive back into this craft and make some beautiful loom knit goodies with you! If you haven’t joined the knit-a-long already, you’re missing out; sign up for the email list here and I’ll send you the super-simple supply list and the invite to our private facebook group!
This is the first post in the series, which means we’ll be learning the very basics of loom knitting, like how to cast on, making the twisted knit stitch, and the terminology you’ll want to know.
This loom knit double brim beanie is one of my favorite projects to make. They’re easy to customize with different colors, and they make a great gift for anyone. I promise you’ll be addicted to making them!
This tutorial is for an adult size double brim beanie. If you want a child size beanie, try using the second largest loom in your set. Or for a baby/toddler size beanie, try the second smallest loom. Loom knit beanies are stretchy, so you have a little bit of leeway when it comes to sizing.
Size
Finished project fits an average adult head (between 21″-23″).
Supplies
For this project, you’ll need:
Large round knitting loom (I use & recommend the largest size from this set)
Loom knitting hook (the set above comes with one, but I prefer this one)
1 skein of Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick & Quick in Fisherman
Scissors
Tapestry needle
Terms
Anchor peg: The small peg extending from the side of your loom
First peg: The working peg to the right of the anchor peg
Last peg: The working peg to the left of your anchor peg
Loop: A loop made from wrapping your peg
Edge loop: A loop at the edge of your work made from casting on
Loom Knit Double Brim Beanie Tutorial
To start, make a slip knot around the small peg that sticks out from the side of your large round loom (this is the “anchor peg”). This just means the yarn will be secure while we cast on and knit the first few rows.
Cast-On
Take your working yarn and wrap it clockwise around the first peg, like so:
This kind of wrap creates and “e” shape around the peg, which is why it’s called an e-wrap. Here’s the backside for an extra visual:
Now wrap your next peg.
As you wrap your pegs, make sure you’re not wrapping it too tight. You want it to be pretty snug, but if you pull your loops too tight then it makes the next step very difficult.
Wrap to the last peg.
While holding on to your working yarn so your loops don’t unravel, use your free thumb to push all those loops down to the bottoms of the pegs.
Now we’re going to repeat the wrapping process. Wrap your yarn clockwise around the first peg, like so:
You’ll now have two loops on that peg. Wrap your next peg, and each peg around, until you reach the last peg and every peg has two loops on it.
While securing your working yarn (I like to loosely tie it around the anchor peg for this next step, but you might like to just hold it with your thumb), take your loom hook to the last peg you worked, and use the hook to lift the bottom loop up, going over the top loop, and slip it completely off the peg.
This loop might be a little tight, depending on how tightly you wrapped your loops, so if it’s too tight and you can’t lift it up and over then you may need to unravel and start over. Here’s what it should look like:
And a view from the back side:
Once the bottom loop is off the peg, move to the next peg to your right. (This should be the first peg; the peg you start each row with.) Repeat the last step; lift the bottom loop up over the top loop and off the peg.
Keep sliding each bottom loop off of their pegs.
And a view from the back side:
You may like to insert your hook from the top side of the bottom loop instead of from the bottom side.
It produces the same result, so just do what’s most comfortable for you! (I like to insert my hook from the top; I feel like it’s easier to get a rhythm that way.)
Keep going until you reach the last peg with a bottom loop. Slide that loop off the peg, and you’ve completed your e-wrap cast on!
Making The Twisted Knit Stitch
Now you’ll start knitting. Push the loops already on your pegs down to the bottom, then take your working yarn and wrap it clockwise around your first peg.
Continue wrapping each peg until you reach your last peg.
Use your hook to slip each bottom loop up and off each peg, just like you did before.
Continue around each peg until you reach the last peg.
Now you’ve completed your first row of stitches! The stitch we’re using is called the twisted knit stitch, due to the way the e-wrap loops give each stitch a slight ‘twisted’ look.
Brim
Continue knitting for 19 more rounds, so that you have 20 rows of stitches total. (At about your 5th or 6th row, you can remove the slip knot from your anchor peg and pull it loose, since if you leave it on too long it can pull your work and warp your stitches.)
Your work should look something like this:
And a view from the bottom side:
To create the brim of your hat you’ll want to find the loop at the bottom of your work that corresponds with the row that comes form working the first peg. Uncurl the bottom edge of your work, and locate the vertical line of stitches that leads up to the first peg (the peg directly to the right of your anchor peg). Here’s how I find mine:
The line of stitches to the left of my thumb, that has the working yarn coming out of it, is the row I’m looking for.
Now I’m going to move the working yarn out of the way so I can see the loop underneath it.
I’m going to pinch that loop, being careful not to pull it too loose, and slide it over the first peg (the peg directly to the right of my anchor peg).
This is the start of the brim! Once you have that first loop on the first peg, take the loop directly to the right of the loop you just pinched, and slide it over the next peg.
Continue like this around your loom, making sure that each loop at the edge of your work goes over its matching peg, so that you don’t have any gaps in the seam of your brim.
Once finished, your work should look something like this:
Now take your hook to the first peg, and slide the bottom loop up over the top loop, and off the peg.
Continue around your loom until you reach the last peg.
And now you have a brim!
Body
To knit the body of the hat, repeat the steps you learned to make the twisted knit stitch; e-wrap each peg, slide the bottom loops off the pegs using your hook, push your new loops down to the bottom of the pegs, and repeat. Knit 20 rounds for a fitted hat, or knit up to 25 rounds for a slouchier-fitting hat (though be warned, you may need an extra skein of yarn for that).
Bind-Off
For this part, you’ll need scissors and a tapestry needle.
Cut your working yarn from its skein, making sure it’s about 30″-35″ long, and thread your needle.
Slide your needle up under the right side of the loop on the first peg.
Thread the working yarn all the way through the loop, like so:
Repeat this step for each peg until you’ve threaded your working yarn through each loop.
Now take your hook, and gently remove the loop from the first peg.
Repeat this step for each peg around, until your hat is completely detached from the loom.
Pull your working yarn tight, closing up the top of your hat.
Making sure your needle is threaded, sew the closure tighter by criss-crossing the thread a few times through the closure.
If you’re not adding a pom pom, trim the remaining yarn tail.
If you’re adding a pom pom to your hat, don’t trim the remaining yarn yet! Take your needle and use it to sew the loose yarn in the brim of your hat, the yarn tail that came from your slip knot at the very beginning of your project, into the stitches so that it’s secure.
If you’re skipping the pom pom: you’re all done!
To learn how to add a pom pom to your loom knit beanie, head on over to the free photo tutorial: How To Make A Pom Pom! This comprehensive tutorial shows you how to use a Clover Pom Pom Maker, and how to attach a pom pom to your beanie.
If you have any questions about this tutorial, leave a comment below or send me an email! You can also join our Loom Knit-A-Long if you haven’t already by signing up here! You’ll get access to our private Facebook group, as well as each project pattern sent to you in print-friendly PDF form. That’s right- free PDF loom knitting patterns sent straight to your inbox!
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More projects from Em’s Fiber Arts you might like:
Toasted Marshmallow Throw Blanket
Velvet Dream Super Plush Circle Scarf
Easy Corner To Corner Baby Blanket
Hi! I was just wondering if you used a full skein for this hat or is it possible to get one adult size and one child size? Thank you for the How To!
Hi Megan! I used almost a full skein for the adult size hat; I did have a little bit left over, but just by looking at it I would guess that it wasn’t quite enough to make a child size hat. You may want to grab an extra skein of your yarn of choice just in case. And with the extra, you could add matching pom poms to each hat! (I actually have a tutorial for that as well if you need some help getting started with pom poms.)
Thanks for reaching out! Let me know if you have any other questions. 🙂
– Emily
Hello, for kids size I am using a smaller loom, should I do a lesser number of rows then too?
Hi Millie! If you’re using a smaller loom, your finished hat should be the right width to fit a child, but you’ll probably want to adjust the number of rows (otherwise the hat will have a super slouchy look). Depending on the child’s age and head size, you could probably knit about half to 3/4ths the amount of rows that the instructions call for, but if possible I would recommend measuring the child’s head just to get an idea of their true size.
Measure from where the edge of the brim should sit on their head, to the crown of their head, and that’s about how long the hat should be- give or take an inch either way if you want a tighter or more slouchy fit. Then start knitting, and once your hat reaches that measurement on the loom, you can bind it off.
Let me know if you have any other questions! Happy crafting!
– Emily
I would like to know if there is a way to put a stripe within the brim area..
Thx..Diane
Hi Diane! Colorwork in loom knitting is actually very easy, and it’s a technique I plan on making a tutorial for! In the meantime, I recommend checking out this tutorial for clear instructions on how to change colors in loom knitting.
https://www.dreamalittlebigger.com/post/change-colors-knitting-loom.html
Thanks so much, and happy crafting!
– Emily
Love the hat! You make it look easy and doable even for a beginner like me! Thanks! One question… your loom has 41 pegs… can I still do it with an even number of pegs?
Hi Jeanette! You should be able to use this tutorial with an even number of pegs! Just follow the instructions in the tutorial- it should work for any size loom. If you have any questions or problems, shoot me an email at emily@emsfiberarts.com and I’d be glad to help! 😊
– Emily
Hello! Thanks for this great tutorial. I was wondering, what am I supposed to do with the tail of my slip knot from the beginning? Does it get sewn in as I go? Thanks!
Nevermind! I just saw that I’m supposed to sew it in. Thanks!
Let me know if you have any other questions, I’ll be glad to help! Hope you’re enjoying the tutorial. 😊
– Emily
Hello!
I tried making a hat and it came out very loose. Does the size of the yarn matter?
Hi Diana! The size of the yarn can definitely affect the size of you finished project; I’ve found that bulky weight yarns (number 5 and 6) work best on the round knitting looms. Worsted weight yarns and lighter weight yarns tend to make your project loose and airy. You may find success with using two strands of worsted weight yarn held together to make a bulkier strand.
Your yarn tension can sometimes affect the finished project as well, but generally it’s the size of the yarn that matters the most. If you’re using a bulky weight yarn and your project still feels loose, you could try adjusting your yarn tension by wrapping your yarn around the pegs a bit tighter.
Let me know if you have any other questions! Thanks for reaching out. 🙂
– Emily